Citroen CX tools and manuals
Citroen CX tools
special tools and workshop manuals
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 CX, BX,VISA, GS, LNA, DS, C15/25, HY, ZX, XM, SM
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       See how to overhaul a CX top suspension arm, the procedure, the tools needed, measure for correct preload [compression] of the bearings.

reconditioning--- removal and measuring, then re- installing the rotating parts to obtain a correct preload for the taper roller bearings.

This is the procedure I used, all the tools needed, with photos and explanations, to show how to recondition the Citroen CX top suspension arm bearings.
This article is for the benefit of owners who are, maybe, not as competent as others in mechanical repair, to show each step in the procedure and make it as simple as possible to understand and have an idea of what will happen when the car is taken to a professional workshop or undertaken by enthusiasts.
As I did not have new parts, the old ones were re-used to demonstrate this procedure.

The bearings need to be preloaded [or compressed] to 112 ft lbs on completion. Seems to me, much force for the size of bearings, however, this is what the manual states and is the factory design pressure for them. This is arrived at by installing 2 new taper roller bearings, a new bearing carrier shaft and 2 new thrust cups with new rubber seals along their length. The preload is effective once the arm is re-installed and the long securing bolt is tightened, which attaches the arm to the vehicle. Simply put, the only way the preload can be established, is to have the outside measurement of the built up unit on the outside faces of the thrust cups, to be more than the length of the bearing carrier shaft, by some +0.008mm, therefore compressing the bearings when the unit is on the car and tightened up. Thanks to the Citroen CX manual, for guidance, but all the tools needed are not fully explained or shown in the manual and the following article should be self explanatory with photos and helpful text.


The arm is securely held in a vise. You can see the bearing shaft, innermost, and the thrust cup which is a slide fit over it.



These are the tools needed to perform this overhaul. Top to bottom and left to right --- Copper mallet,
slide hammer, adjustable measuring device, expanding inner bearing puller, tapered pin to expand the puller,
2 x end plates to pull bearings onto the shaft, with nuts and washers, drift to insert the bearing outer cups,
2 x 19mm spanners, drift to knock the shaft out of one of the bearings plus the thrust cup and also to knock the
 other bearing from the shaft, screwed bar to be used with the end plates to pull the whole unit together.
You will also need a digital vernier caliper, capable of measuring up to a least 120mm and, maybe, a 24mm
 socket for one slightly awkward step with the re-build.


Use the drift to knock the shaft out of the bearing race.



Shaft comes out with one bearing still attached.


As you withdraw the drift, the bearing and thrust cup will also come out. Note the rust.


Insert the expanding puller. Hit it with the copper mallet to compress it and go through the inner bearing race.
The taper in the race compresses it, once through, it expands again, and require a slight adjustment to give it the correct size.


Insert the tapered pin and connect the slide hammer until hand tight. With 2 spanners, tighten the pin in until the puller is just tight and then slacken
off one flat. Its not much to tighten it up. Just make sure that the puller if free on the inside and level. If not, you can damage the puller and inside of the bore.


It take quite a bit of force to release the inner cup.
Repeat on the other side. Thats the unit clear of parts now.


Remove the arm from the vise and drive out the bearing shaft from the remaining outer race. Knock the longest length out, as per photo. Doing it the other way around will smash up the bearing.
Do not grip the shaft in the vise, just rest the bearing face onto the vise jaws.


These are the parts removed. This arm has been repaired before because I found a 0.025 shim between the rear bearing and the thrust cup.[top left]
Citroen do not stipulate using shims, rather different sizes of thrust cups but it doesn't really matter.


Measure the bearing shaft and write this down. This shaft is 115.99mm long. Shafts can vary in length as well as bearing thicknesses
This is why it is most important to make the following measurements for inserting new parts, as maybe a different size of thrust cup or shim may be needed
to achieve the preload.


You can see the roller wear marks on the inside of the outer bearing cup. This unit was well worn out.


Insert the new outer bearing cups, remember, the correct way round.
Drive them both in, at either end, until they rest next to their seats.


Both outer cups installed. You can see the seat stop.
The space on the outside is for the thrust cup and seal.


Take the locknut and double nut off the adjustable measuring device and put one bearing onto the tool and insert it into the arm.


Put on the other bearing. Notice the rust and lack of grease. The races were seized up.


Screw on the double nut and seat the bearings in the outer races. Hand pressure is enough.


Next, screw on the locknut, only a firm hand tightening is enough. This lock nut ensures that any tilting of the double nut
on the screw theads is eliminated, so that I can achieve a correct measurement here. The nuts have been machined with flat faces.


Measure from the end face of the threaded part, to the first face of the locknut, seen on previous photo. Write this down, 36.79mm.

Remove the adjustable measuring device and remove the arm from the vise and replace this with the adjustable measuring device. I used my lathe chuck instead.
Adjust the double nut and the locknut until you can achieve the reading of 36.79mm on the digital vernier caliper. Only hand  tight is enough, as before.
This measurement is crucial, so must be correct. To get this correct with a standard vernier gauge would take a month of Sundays!!!!!!!


As the double nut and locknut are in the correct position now, measure the distance between the boss face
 and the inside face of the double nut. This is now 97.06mm. This the distance between the 2 outer bearing faces that I set up before.
Write this size down.


Measure the width of the FRONT thrust cup,
this MUST be 9.34mm. Citroen stipulate this
as the only size of thrust cup to be used on the FRONT OF THE ARM.
Note the rubber seal.

 I am now going to calculate the size of the REAR thrust cup to achieve the correct preload for the bearings.

Length of bearing carrier shaft       = 115.99mm
Minus distance over bearings        =   97.06mm
Difference                                         =   18.93mm

18.93mm = total width of 2 thrust cups.

Standard front thrust cup = 9.34mm
Width of REAR thrust cup must be  18.93mm - 9.34mm = 9.59mm + 0.008mm[ for the preload] = 9.598mm  -----  Round up to 9.60mm = width of REAR cup

Citroen sell different width sized thrust cups. I do not know if they are still available. They go up in size by 0.14mm from the standard one of 9.34. There are 6 sizes.
The next one up from standard will be 9.48mm ---- no good, except with shims. Next one will be 9.62mm, slightly oversize. I will use this, without any shims.
Others sizes are, 9.76mm, 9.90mm,10.04mm

I refitted the old units to the arm, but I have calculated and shown how to obtain the correct size for a thrust cup with worn out bearings just as an exercise.
If these cups are unavailable, then shims will have to be used with the old rear cup. However the seals will be worn, as obviously water has passed them in this case. If Citroen have discontinued these parts, then everything, bar the 2 bearings could be used again. Taper roller bearings should be available on the open market. These were Timken brand. There is a number on the bearing outer cup as a reference.

        

Drive the bearing shaft into the rear bearing and the thrust cup, to get the bearing to its close enough position on the shaft on a flat surface with the copper mallet.
Assemble the shaft and bearing, the shim [lightly grease the shim to enable it to stick to the bearing face on its centre ] and thrust cup with the screwed 12mm bar and one hexagon end plate with nut and washer and fit into the arm.


Assemble the front end and screw the bearing and thrust cup into position. It is a little awkward doing this, so a 24mm socket can be used instead of the end plate.


The rear thrust cup and bearing and shaft cannot move due to the end plate. Push the front bearing onto the shaft with the end plate, nut and washer, and then push on the thrust cup to seat the bearing further up the shaft into its correct position with the 24m socket and nut and washer, if the end plate is awkward to use.

   

                                 Both sides complete


The length of the bearing shaft is 115.99mm, ascertained when I stripped the arm bearings etc.
The distance between the outer faces of the thrust cups is 115.88mm, 0.11mm short. The preload has gone.
This is due to the worn out bearings. With new bearings installed, the distance over the thrust cups must be
 more than the length of the shaft, this then gives you the PRELOAD. As calculated before.

You can now install a new top ball joint with other special tools. I shall demonstrate this in the next article soon.
 Once this is done, the arm can be installed onto the vehicle. Top of arm secured and preload set, ball joint tightened up, anti-roll
bar link rod re-attached and suspension cylinder positioned and secured with a new split pin.
 Some vehicles with ABS will need the drive shaft pulling into position and secured.

Hey- presto, all done.




I hope that you have seen something new, and that you can now go ahead and complete this overhaul yourself.
If you need tools for the job, just contact myself, please. I will do my best to help with your repairs.

With the correct tools, you can achieve anything..................

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How to remove and insert a Citroen CX top ball joint

             The ball joint is a very tight press in fit into the arm housing. This article will explain how to extract it and replace a new one, with the correct tools.




This is the original Citroen press, with another 2 tools. The tube has 2 different inside diameters on it, one on each end. One accepts the pressed out joint and the other end presses it in onto its shoulder, in the arm housing. Both operations are completed with the dolly which is used on both sides as well.


Hold the press in a vise and support the arm squarely with the tools all lined up properly.
When satisfied that you are ready, apply pressure, screw the bolt down making sure all is still lined up.
Any error now, will damage the tools.
Apply as much pressure as you can with a 1 metre pipe on the end of your 3/4" drive socket and T-bar.
Next, you must apply a heat source to the joint housing to expand it. When its hot enough, you will hear
the joint moving, with a loud "crack" noise. Apply more pressure, and repeat the heating. Keep doing this
until the joint has moved about 8mm, then you should be able to press it out without any more heating.


This is the end of the tube that accepts the ball joint on removal. The joint will drop out onto the shoulder, inside.


This is the other end of the tube. The face sits up against the shoulder on the joint to press it in.


This is the press out dolly, 2 sizes on this tool. The small end presses out the joint.


This end of the dolly sits onto the top of the housing when re-inserting the joint.
It has a 3mm recess. As the ball joint protrudes through the housing by about 2mm,
the joint can be pressed home onto its shoulder.


Here's the old joint. If you can expand the photo, you will see milling marks on the circumference.
These marks, compress, when the joint is inserted, to make it a tight fit.


This is the top of the housing, where the joint top, protrudes about 2mm.


To insert the joint, you will need to turn the arm over. Notice the chamfer on the bore. This is to indicate the insertion side of the arm.
When the joint is fully into position, the shoulder will be up to this face and protrude about 2mm on the other face.


Fit the joint onto the tube, sitting on its shoulder.
Line everything up again, then apply pressure and heat again.
Repeat this until the joint is fully home onto its shoulder.
Take arm out and dip in a bucket of cold water.
Inspect the rubber cover on the joint for any heat damage.


Pressing the joint into the housing. The joint will go up into the dolly, by about 2mm when the ball joint shoulder is fully up.
All tools must be properly aligned, to avoid any damage.

Citroen state in the manual, that this procedure can be done on the car, without taking the arm off.

That's it. Arm back on and go for a drive.

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CX TOOLS & MANUALS


BEM MULLER 455 PRESSURE TESTING KIT
   180.00

BEM MULLER 455 Hydraulic pressure checking/testing kit for all Citroen vehicles + instruction booklet.
This kit is to enable the testing of the oil pressure on all CITROEN vehicles, the converter oil pressure on all "CX and GS" vehicles and hydraulic units and circuits on "CX, GS and C35" vehicles.
There are 8mm and 9mm adapters. Check brake accumulator, check source of pressure, main accumulator, pressure regulator, cut in pressure, front and rear spheres, full hydraulic checks. Converters on CX C MATIC and GS C MATIC.  Visa club and special, LNA [4cv], Visa Super, A series [all types] and LN [3cv], GS and Ami Super, CX [all types] Petrol and Diesel, HY, all types, C35, all types etc etc.
The instruction booklet tells which numbered items to use [as per the print out in the top of the box] how to prepare for testing and removal of test equipment in a safe manner.
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 45.00

6006-T Tool for fitting bearing sealing ring on clutch side
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 35.00
 6337-T Mandrel to fit oil seal to hub bearing
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 45.00

6309-T  Tool for checking and adjusting the castor angle. Used with 6325-T cone for ball joint - 30mm diameter
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                                             70.00                                                                                 
                                     36.5mm o/dia + 35.0mm dia + slide hammer                                                                         
6338-T Expanding internal bearing/bush puller. Use with slide hammer 1617-T [10mm thread] and expander pin.
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 85.00

80613 [B5Z] Front wheel bearing dismantle and insert [5 pieces for this tool]
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 40.00

6318-T Tool for removing and fitting the clutch thrust bearing guide sleeve. [modified to enable correct fitting on Athena and Reflex models to avoid a bad fitting of the sleeve.] Use with 1617-T 10mm thread, slide hammer
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 38.00

6014-T Crankshaft oil seal fitting tool [flywheel side]
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 15.00
3074-T Pair of holding/securing screws for non-movement of cylinder liners
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  88.00 including sleeve and slide hammer.

6324-T 2 half shells for removing lower ball joint, 14mm thread. Use with a sleeve to prevent movement of shells + slide hammer 1617-T [10mm thread]
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  5.00
6312-T Expander for holding lower arm "fluid-bloc" bushes
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 65.00
4097-T Electronic engine management system fault code analyser. 2 digit codes.
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6335-T  Top ball joint dismantle and re-insert tool with 2 additional mandrels. You must use HEAT to expand the housing.
 Can be done on workbench or on vehicle without dismantling the arm with aid of another person.  175.00
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 25.00

Heavy duty ball joint splitter.   Any vehicle.
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1617-T  Slide hammer. Used with a variety of tools. 10mm thread.    47.00
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Price 210.00

CX  front/rear upper suspension arm. Set of tools to enable the overhaul of the upper arm bearings etc.
This is a 6 tool set, consisting of ---
Dolly, to insert bearing outer cups.
Expanding puller and pin, to pull the outer cups out of the housing.
End plates, screwed bar, nuts and washers to pull and assemble the unit.
Drift, to remove inner shaft, remove bearings and re- install bearings onto shaft.
Adjustable measuring device. Set this tool and calculate the PRELOAD of the taper roller bearings.
Slide hammer, used with the expanding puller and pin, to remove the outer bearing cups.
The instructions and a helpful article, showing the repairs are on this site.


ORIGINAL CX WORKSHOP MANUALS

    
  repairing and reconditioning               3 workshop manuals                   automatic gearbox
            15 sections  70.00           includes diesel model 70.00 each            70.00

 8.00
       Haynes manual
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BX TOOLS AND MANUALS

4097-T Electronic engine management fault code reader [2 digit codes]
 
                                         18.00                                                                                          18.00
                                   36.5mm o/dia                                                                           35mm o/dia
6338-T Expanding internal bearing/bush puller. Used with 1617-T slide hammer [10mm thread] and expander pin.
Slide hammer and expander pins in CX section.
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 35.00

228-T  Handbrake tool. To compress the dished spring washers to withdraw the handbrake cable pivot arm
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 180.00                                                       
BEM MULLER 455 Hydraulic pressure checking and testing of all oil systems + instruction booklet
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 35.00

7102-T    Tool to compress anti-roll bar bearing springs
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 10.00
4089-T Automatic choke control adjusting gauge [Weber carb]   [70145]
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 10.00
7016-T Mandrel for fitting crankshaft SPI seal on flywheel side [XU engine]
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 12.00
7005-T Bracket for dismantling and assembling the engine and gearbox unit
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 10.00
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VISA  TOOLS AND MANUALS

 20.00
80909-T Rear arm shaft extractor. [VD1, VD2]
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 15.00

80130-T Rocker arm adjusting spanner 13mm + bi hex socket 16mm [middle tool], + 22mm tube socket [on the left]
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 28.00

4051-T Spanner for speedo nut behind the dashboard [VD1]
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 40.00

4086-T Adaptor plate for Visa diesel GTI 205 and 305 + C15 diesel. Also for Peugeot 504, 505, 604.
To enable removal and refitting of the front suspension spring or damper. Use with the compression kit OUT 504 068-T
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               70.00                                 70.00                                  10.00                              10.00

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GS, GSA TOOLS AND MANUALS


 70.00
1893-T Front hub extractor
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 28.00

4051-T  Spanner for speedo nut behind the dashboard
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2069-T Tool for fitting the rear arm. Use with 4036-T rear arm extractor, ball joint puller.
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 60.00

Box of repair tools for engine seals and cylinder head, includes 1697-T, 1695-T, 1696-T, 1697-T
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60608 Wheel hub extractor
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 60.00

4036-T  Puller for bearing or ball joint to detach the rear axle arm from the anti-roll bar. Use with 2069-T.
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 40.00

6318-T Tool for removing and fitting the clutch thrust bearing sleeve on pedal operated clutch. Use with slide hammer 1617-T 10mm thread.  Slide hammer photo in CX section.
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 60.00 including sleeve

6324-T /4036-T Half shells for removing the lower arm ball joint. Ball joint thread = 14mm. Use with sleeve to prevent shells from moving and slide hammer 1671-T [10mm thread]  Slide hammer photo in CX section.

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2069-T Bolt for rear arm extractor
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             70.00                                  70.00                                 15.00

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AX, LNA, DS, C15/25, HY, ZX, XM TOOLS AND MANUALS


 35.00
9029-T  XM  Pliers for Durite [B.M.] cooling system flexible collars/pipe clips.
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 15.00

HY 3020-T Long reach open end spanner for rear of carb securing nuts.
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 25.00

0426-T  AX, ZX, C25 Spanner to remove and replace the rear brake shoe springs.
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 38.00

4096-T C25 Two tool unit to fit rear hub reinforced bearings [supplement to kit 80531-T]
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 5.00
4095-T C25 Tools for overhauling petrol engine.  10mm x 1.5mm thread
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 10.00

ZX, XM, C15/25 7016-T Mandrel for fitting crankshaft SPI seal on flywheel side XU engine
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 40.00
4086-T  C15 Diesel. Remove and refit front suspension spring or damper. Use with compression kit OUT 504 068-T
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 30.00

9501-T  ZX Front and rear axle overhaul
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 25.00
LNA  4037-T Mandrel for inserting the oil seal on rear of crankshaft [made from nylon]
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                 70.00                              70.00                                 70.00
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      10.00

AX  4501-T-D     Hex slotted adjuster. Part of kit for repairing hub, lower arm, front suspension
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HY Front brake shoe adjuster [external] 25.00
HY Front eccentric brake shoe adjuster [internal] 25.00
HY Lower ball joint ring nut dismantle and assembly tool 75.00
HY Track rod end lower 4 slot securing nut tool, dismantle and assembly 38.00



OTHER TOOLS AND MANUALS


 25.00

Unidentified Citroen tool 4605-T     Long reach tube spanner with 3 pegs
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        40.00                                                  50.00
interior upholstery &                                                   Traction Avant
trim samples all models     

     
            70.00                           70.00                            70.00                            70.00


        
             25.00                           5.00                All D types, 4 sections
                                                                                          70.00
                                                                           loads of MR tools shown

      
30.00 each. These 4 manuals tell of any modification, size change etc to all vehicles.
An invaluable source of information for the enthusiastic owner. Covers parts and tools.

     
            10.00                             10.00                            10.00                           5.00

 
               5.00                              8.00