ds

Hit Counter

I will be making more DS tools. Please enquire. New tools added frequently.



                                                             

                                                                                  ds top ball joint socket and securing nut + bottom cup puller set
                                                                                             full kit of tools for top ball joint- price £100.00 + post

After removing the peen marks, ensuring that nothing will impede the removal of the top cup nut, attach the socket and the nut and tighten it. The socket must be totally rigid. It is torqued to about 150 ft/lbs. Any peening left around the top cup will only put extra strain on the socket pegs.


      
        socket with the securing nut                              bottom cup puller, assembled tool                                           puller cup


      
              bottom cup extractor bolt                        this screws into the bottom cup threads            this tool presses in a new bottom cup

The bottom cup is pressed into a housing and needs to be pulled out. There are 3-4 fine threads in the bottom of the cup and the puller bolt screws into them. It's not a lot of thread to pull on.
Assemble the tool kit and position the puller cup squarely on the top, screw in the puller bolt until hand tight only and then start to tighten the bolt nut onto the puller cup. The bottom cup should start to move upwards. You must now slacken the puller bolt nut and screw in the puller bolt a little more to put fresh threads into the bottom cup. you will know that the cup has moved because you can screw the bolt in further. Repeat the process and pull the cup out. The cup MUST be pulled out by using the puller bolt nut, not by bottoming the bolt, putting more strain on the fine threads. You can now insert the new bottom cup with the mandrel supplied. These tools can be bought or hired, making it a cost saving exercise for you. Help and guidance is always available.
Remember that the 4 peg socket must NOT be allowed to move.

   ds cup

The bottom cup with the 3-4 fine threads





ds bottom ball joint tool- price £60.00


 

      It is torqued to 250 ft/lbs and peened over. Remove ALL peenings before attempting to unscrew the ball joint top cap.                                                               The pins are made of 12/9 alloy steel and are very strong. They are 5.2mm diameter and can withstand a shear force of 1/3 ton each.
                                                                         You will require a 55m socket
                              Use the nut from the ball joint to secure the tool, it must be absolutely tight in the holes.

                                                                                       price    £60.00 + post


MR 630-16/15   Spanner for the plug on the hydraulic brake pedal gear. [ Woodruff key slot }


                    

                                                   The plug is located at the bottom of the unit and the spanner fits into a 25mm diameter woodruff key slot
                                                                                  The rounded peg is made from chrome vanadium.

                                                                                                                 price £17.00 + post



MR 630-16/7     Spanner for the steering rack spring loaded pressure pad cup nut.


                                                           

                                                           


                                                   The width of the operating peg is 20.00mm. It is made from chrome vanadium.

                                                                                                           price £14.00 + post

ENGINE TOOLS

                                   

                                                                          Cylinder liner gasket guide. Price £50.00 or hire.

MR630  64/25  Ring guide for the paper gaskets fitted to the cylinder liners. Place the gaskets onto the liners, down to the first step.
Mount the tool the correct way round [stamped DOWN] and  move it down the liner to locate the gaskets. The tool is very useful as
gaskets are quite thin and can tear easily and also foul on the liner. The tool inside diameter is 98.25mm.




MR630 31/11  Mandrel for fitting the starter motor pole pieces. Also used for the clutch cylinder. Made from EN19 alloy steel with a 6mm x 1mm tapped hole, all the way through.
Outside diameter 18.40mm, length  21.45mm, 0.5mm radius on each end.

                                                                                                          Price £15.00 or hire.

Crankcase oil way plugs.

price £15.00 or hire.

3 x OIL WAY PLUGS, REMOVAL PROCEDURE ----- Drill a 6mm hole in each plug [3] then enlarge it to 12.5mm. Remove the first few threads from the plugs, using a scriber. Tap a 14 x 1.5mm thread and remove the remainder of the plug metal. Remove ALL shavings and swarf in the oil ways and pipes. Clean the block and the oil ways/pipes. [ compressed air ] The plugs are made from aluminium.

MR630 31/43   Mandrel for crimping the aluminium screw in plugs, in the cylinder block.
Plugs are screwed in and set at 1mm below the block surface. The 60 degree tip on the tool, expands the plugs and locks them in position and also seals them.
This must be done gradually to avoid damaging the block.

Note----- from December 1965 onwards, the aluminium plug near the middle of the block was replaced with a hexagonal steel plug, fitted with a copper seal. If you want to do this on an earlier block, you must spot face the block, with a milling cutter, for the seal to be perfectly leak proof. If this cannot be done, then, an aluminium plug must be used again.




 Push rod cam follower extractor and insertion tool

   




        

Price £36.00 + post or hire.

MR 630 27/4.  An expanding puller to remove and insert the push rod cam followers.
A 6mm tapered pin in inserted into the Delrin plastic head of the tool and a 10mm screwed rod, with a handle welded on, tightens down to it.
The Delrin head can expand and return to its normal size, when unscrewed, and will not crack or split. Its an amazing material invented in the 1960's.
The outside diameter of the Delrin material head is 22.0mm. Hold the head in one hand, firmly, and then turn the handle 1/4 turn to expand the head.
It should now be 22.3mm outside diameter. Push the head, firmly, into the cam follower hole, aided by the taper on the tool. If it is a slack fit, expand it more. If needed, knock it into the seat of the follower with your hand. NEVER hit it with ANY tool.
It will now be a tight fit inside the follower. Test by rotating the handle slightly, and withdraw each cam follower and inspect them all for any wear. Replace with new ones if worn. Always keep the followers in order as regards their respective positions.
NEVER hit the tool in with a hammer. Adjust the tool to get a nice tight fit. The Delrin is flexible about the heads 4 slots.

The original Citroen tool had a piece of round rubber and a washer on each side, so when tightened up, it would expand the rubber.
This tool is a new design and only works on the principle that the original Citroen tool utilised.

Delrin is an engineering thermo plastic. Please, Google it, to discover its amazing properties.


 MR 630 31/71

Mandrel used to fit new spark plug tubes. Price £25.00 or hire.


  MR 630 31/44

Mandrel for positioning the distributor drive dog on its shaft. Price £25.00 or hire.


CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR TOOLS

When everything has been taken off the head, all that is left are the valves and their spring set up and the 4 spark plug tubes.
To prevent the valves from moving whilst dismantling and rebuilding, a special support is needed. It is made from plywood and is 27mm thick.
All the holes in the cylinder head, except the push rod guide holes, are measured and their positions are drilled into the support. 10mm screwed metal wood inserts are then added to enable the head to be secured and to allow any tools to be mounted. 4 adjustable balls are used to eliminate any play in the valves and they are adjusted to touch the valve heads. There are 2 flat metal strips screwed to the support to aid guiding the head into the correct position to enable the securing bolts to be inserted.  


                          

               Top view of the support                                     17 wood inserts and 4 plastic inserts               

                        

             Adjustable ball                           The adjuster is off centre. Valve head size determines this position           2 of the 4 securing bolts

                

Tilt the support and adjust the balls to the valve heads until all movement has ceased. EXHAUST and INLET SIDE.
 Mount the two pillar support rails to be able to use the valve spring compressor.

            

Dismantle the components.
All the securing holes are there with 10mm threaded inserts.
Place each valve and its components in the correct order on the valve table.

                
    valve stem seal insertion tools              long screws securing the valve pillar rails and the head to the support stand

          

                                  drift to insert new spark plug tubes

Remove the valve stem seals with a pair of pliers, carefully. They will be destroyed on removal. Remove the lower spring guide plates, located on the valve guide diameter.. There are 2 sizes of seal and 2 sizes of seal inserters. If a spark plug tube is damaged, then it can be replaced with this drift. Remove them with a pair of pliers, turning left and right and also pulling upwards. If these tubes are unavailable, then, a repair has to be made. The tubes must be set to the correct depth.
Remove the 4 head securing bolts and the pillar rails and carefully tilt the head onto its side. Check for any play in the valve guides. There should not be any play. These may need replacing. Worn guides and stem seals can cause excessive oil consumption.

   

New type exhaust valve stem seal made from PTFE (Teflon). This material is virtually frictionless. Its a good tight fit on the valve guide so it cannot come off.
The valve stem is oiled and tested. It is a very good, but not too tight, sliding fit.



VALVE GUIDE REMOVAL AND INSERTION.

This article shows how to easily extract and insert valve guides with the correct tools. Every guide is pulled out and pulled into its final correct position.
The first thing to do is to measure, accurately, the inlet and exhaust valve guide protrusion into the head, with a vernier caliper, and note this down.
Next, mount the pulling tools and measure the depth of the pulling bolt from the top of the thrust nut hole, on inlet and exhaust side, and note this down.
The depth on the inlet side should be 51.96mm
The depth on the exhaust side should be 32.50mm
The protrusion into the head, on the inlet side, should be 9.00mm
The protrusion on the exhaust side should be 14.00mm
The inlet valve stem seal is 9.70mm long
The exhaust valve stem seal is 13.00mm long


The valve guide tool kit consists of--------
Hexagon head pulling bolt, round headed pulling bolt, receiving cup, long thrust nut, short thrust nut, thrust washer, and a brass bar.
The guides will have a layer of varnish around their extremeties.The brass bar can be used to break the initial pull to assist with removing the varnish.


The valve guide protrudes down very slightly towards the valve heads. The hexagon headed bolt is used as an initial puller to lock everything together and prevent anything rotating and to break the varnish coating.
The long thrust nut, at the top, can only be turned 2 flats to achieve this.


The hexagon headed bolt protrudes through the guide.


The valve guide receiver tube is mounted.


The long thrust nut is screwed down.


Ensure everything is lined up and tight.


A 13mm socket is attached to the hexagon headed puller bolt.


Begin the pulling, the nut can only turn 2 flats, maximum. The idea is to break the varnish coating around the guide and also to prevent anything rotating.


Once the thrust nut has turned 2 flats, use the brass drift and gently hit it, only once. This will break the varnish seal.


Dismantle the tools and remove the hexagon headed puller bolt and substitute it with the round headed puller bolt and then rebuild the tooling.
This bolt will remove the guide and travel up the head bore.


The long thrust nut will screw down to the top of the valve guide and stop.
Remove the long thrust nut.
The valve guide is almost out now.


You can clearly see the varnish and other contaminants on the guide surfaces.

           

                              Mount the thrust washer.                                                                                    Mount the smaller thrust nut.


The smaller thrust nut is turned approximately 6 turns and the valve guide will come out.


Locate the new valve guide and insert the round headed puller bolt and assemble the tooling. The old guide is being reinstalled for this article, after cleaning it.


Valve guide in position with the round headed puller bolt.


Pull the guide in, to within 3mm of its final position. You can see this through the exhaust valve port.


Measure the depth of the puller bolt. After a bit more pulling, the final position reading must be 32.50mm. The guide must move another 4.39mm.
The puller bolt thread pitch is 1.25mm so the thrust nut has to rotate another 3.5 turns. Turning the thrust nut 1 flat is equivalent to 0.21mm.
Turn the thrust nut 3 turns only and re-measure the depth again.

   

                      Using the vernier depth gauge.                                                     Final measurement must be 32.50mm + or - 0.02mm.

              

Dismantle the tooling and measure the valve guide protrusion into the head. It was originally 14.00mm, it is now in its correct position.


       

               These are the correct depths from the top of the thrust nut to the top of the puller bolt for the inlet and exhaust guides.          

      

                                                                  These are the valve guide protrusions into the cylinder head.

                                                           Use the same procedure to remove and reinstall the exhaust valves.


                                         

                                                                    Valve parts table and the cylinder head support stand.